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SINCE 1979 | LOCALLY AND FAMILY OWNED | BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU

Your First Choice for Quality Doors and Windows

Looking for top-quality windows and doors? Get in touch with the team at Arcadia Sash & Door Inc. We’re a local, family owned business with a reputation for providing excellent customer service. Learn more about our products and services below. Contact us today!

New Windows & Doors

Doors FAQ

Door Components

When ordering an exterior door you will need to answer these questions.

  • Does the door swing in or out?

  • As viewed from outside which side is the hinge on: right or left?

  • Jamb size: What is the wall thickness?

  • Sill material: aluminum or oak?

  • Hardware finish: brass, satin nickel, bronze, etc?

  • Weatherstrip color: white or brown?

  • Hardware prep: tubular 2-1/8" bore or mortise?

Door Frame Components

Door Handing

Exterior Doors - As viewed from the outside specify which side the hinge is on.

Exterior Door Illustration

Interior Doors - Specify which side the hinge pin is visible. (note: you can only see from one side)

Interior Door Illustration
Glass Sliding Doors

Sliding Doors

Windows FAQ

About Windows

A window is glass held in a sash that fits into a frame.

 

Buying windows is not simple. Whether it's for a new home or an addition, the range of options can be confusing.

 

The good news is that windows are better than ever. There a wide variety of styles, frames that hardly ever need maintenance, and glazing systems that can slash energy costs. Double-pane insulated glass, heat-resistant coatings, and airtight frames can cut household energy expenditures by as much as 15 percent compared with the leaky single-pane models used in the past.

 

That improved technology comes at a price. While windows once accounted for 3 to 5 percent of a new home's cost, today 8 to 10 percent is more common. 

Here are some pointers to help you cut through the confusion and spend your money wisely.

 

The style of its windows sets the tone for a house. Punctuate a wall with two symmetrical rows of small, double-hung windows, and it looks Colonial. Fill the same wall with casements, and it is Arts and Crafts. An all-glass wall says contemporary. When choosing a style, it's important to consider the house's architecture, and also the window's locations — certain types work better in some settings than in others. 

 

Double-hung windows are the most popular. Modern versions have a tilt-in sash for easy cleaning of the outside panes. These all-around favorites have some limitations; for example, they're not the best choice in locations where you have to stretch to open them, such as over a kitchen sink.

 

Casement windows are hinged at the side and typically swing out. The full-height opening provides excellent ventilation. But casements, especially those made of wood, can suffer damage if left open in the rain. They're a poor choice where they would open onto patios or other traffic areas. 

 

Sliding windows function like double-hungs turned sideways. They look best in contemporary homes, and work well opening onto a deck or exterior stairway, where a casement's swing would cause trouble.

 

Awning windows are hinged on the top and open out from the bottom. They're often used for ventilation under large, fixed-pane picture windows in contemporary-style homes. They keep out rain even when open, as long as the wind isn't blowing too hard.

 

Keep Comfort in Mind

 

What works best on the outside to give your house a sense of scale and visual identity isn't always ideal on the inside, where windows should respond to how rooms are used and the orientation of the house to the sun and wind. 

 

For instance, windows facing east and west accept the very low angle of spring and fall sunlight, which can often be blinding — especially troublesome in a room used for watching television or working on a computer. 

 

For windows on those walls, you will need shades or curtains, or to set the sill more than 4 feet off the floor to reduce glare. Similarly, if you know in which direction the prevailing wind blows, you can increase the amount of operable glass in that area, allowing for more passive ventilation and cutting down on air-conditioning bills.

 

Today's windows are far superior to their older counterparts in terms of blocking unwanted drafts, but you still need to take into account radiant heating and cooling. No matter how well insulated, large panes of glass will suck heat in winter and invite it in during summer. 

 

For maximum comfort in cold climates, it may be necessary to have large areas of glass directly washed by a heat source, such as convective heat from a radiator or blown heat from a forced-air system (just know that this will raise your heating bill). 

 

On the flip side, the best way to guard against heat gain in warm weather, especially with south-facing windows, is to shade the glass with long overhangs so that the high angle of the sun during summer cannot penetrate deeply into your room. Curtains and shades are another defense.

Window Types

Labeling

Deciphering the Sticker

 

Manufacturers typically submit their windows to tests that follow standards set by the nonprofit National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC). Their findings, reported on a sticker affixed to most new windows, rate several factors, each expressed as a number. The sample below shows what all the figures actually mean:

Window Label Sticker

(A) U-Factor measures how much heat escapes from a room through the window; the lower the number (usually between 0.20 and 1.20), the better the window's insulating ability. In colder climates, look for 0.35 or lower. Warmer climates can go as high as 0.75.

 

(B) Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) indicates how much heat from the sun the window allows to come into a room, expressed on a scale of 0 to 1. In warmer climates, look for an SHGC lower than 0.4, which means that less than 40 percent of the sun's heat enters a room.

 

(C) Visible Light Transmittance (VT) measures how much light passes through the window. Anything higher than 0.6 (meaning 60 percent of the light is transmitted) will appear clear to the naked eye. Numbers below 0.5 can significantly darken the view.

 

(D) Air Leakage (optional) essentially says how drafty a window is, measured in cubic feet of air per square foot of window. A good number is between 0.1 and 0.3, and few manufacturers report this rating unless the window falls into that range.

 

(E) Condensation Resistance (optional) shows, through a number between 1 and 100, how well a window resists forming condensation (on the inside during cold months, on the outside during a humid summer). The higher the number, the better the window is at resisting condensation.

 

(F) Design Pressure (Not shown) (optional) is a structural rating that shows how well a window can withstand pressure from wind and rain in pounds per square foot. A large window should rate at least DP-30; 40 or 50 is even better. In hurricane regions they must also have impact glass, which, like a windshield, doesn't shatter. Check codes for local requirements.

Glass

LoĒ³-366 Glass

SHGC: 0.27 / U-Factor: 0.24 / TDW: 0.43 / Light Trans: 66% / All stats

 

A new standard

Cardinal introduces LoĒ³-366 (pronounced low E cubed-366), the ultimate performance glass. It just might make all other low-E glasses obsolete. LoĒ³-366 delivers the ideal balance of solar control and high visibility. And it provides the highest levels of year-round comfort and energy savings, making it the perfect glass no matter where you live. The secret? An unprecedented triple layer of silver. This is beyond ordinary low-E glass; LoĒ³-366 sets the new standard.

 

Low-E times three makes the difference

Cardinal has for years worked with top-tier window manufacturers by providing energy-efficient LoĒ² glass. Now with three layers of year-round thermal protection, the benefits are exceptional.

 

The result: a clear coating that blocks even more solar gain than ever before, reflects heat and lets the light stream in. Notice the difference below between clear glass, regular low-E glass and new LoĒ³-366.

 

Energy savings all year long

The full-year benefits of LoĒ³-366 can be clearly seen. When the temperature soars in the summer, ordinary window glass just can't beat the heat. And tinted glass spoils the view. LoĒ³-366 is formulated to reject solar heat while maintaining attractive visibility. So it keeps the heat out while letting light in. As a matter of fact, LoĒ³-366 glass is our ultimate in performance and clarity among all of Cardinal's clear coated products.

LoĒ³-366 Glass Performance Graph

What is more, LoĒ³-366 provides the ultimate in fading protection. It blocks 95% of the sun's damaging ultraviolet rays - a leading cause of fading - so your furniture, carpets, curtains and wall coverings stay beautiful for years.

 

During the cold weather, the insulating effect of your windows has a direct impact on how your rooms feel. The better insulated the window glass, the warmer your room will feel. In fact, the Efficient Windows Collaborative suggests that when glass surface temperature falls below 52°F, there is a risk of thermal discomfort. To maintain the best comfort during the winter, select a glass product that produces surface temperatures that will stay above this point during the coldest outdoor conditions.

 

According the chart below, the insulating capability of LoĒ³-366 can't be compared to any other glass product. This is a key factor in the construction of comfortable homes. Additionally, the dramatic comfort improvement in windows with warm glass surfaces means the humidity of the indoor air can be controlled and maintained properly. Proper humidity levels will improve comfort and promote a healthier living environment.

Saving money and protecting the environment

According to the Consumer Federation of America, the average American household spends $1,500 per year on energy costs. But energy-efficient windows can help save a bundle. In fact, you can reduce your energy bills by one-third by simply using low-emissivity glass. 

But not only does it make financial sense, it's smart to do in view of limited global resources. Conscious consumers are increasingly making purchasing decisions based current environmental realities. By using products that reduce energy consumption, one diminishes their environmental footprint, limiting usage of fossil fuels and lowering carbon emissions.

LoĒ³-366 Inside Glass Temperatures Chart

Egress

Code:

Every sleeping room below the fourth floor shall have at least one openable window or door to the outside to permit emergency exit or rescue. The emergency door or window shall be openable from the inside to provide a full, clear opening without the use of separate tools. Windows shall have a sill height of not more than 44 inches above the floor. Windows shall comply with all the following three conditions:

  • Provide not less than 5.7 (821 In2 ) square feet of clear openable area.

  • Provide a net clear opening minimum width = 20"

  • Provide a net clear minimum height = 24".

Egress Windows

Energy Efficiency

ENERGY STAR qualified windows, doors and skylights reduce energy bills by about 7-24 percent, increase comfort, and come in a variety of shapes and sizes to achieve precisely the look you’re after.

 

The energy performance of all ENERGY STAR qualified windows, doors, and skylights must be independently tested and certified according to test procedures established by the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC).

Energy Star Logo

Performance Ratings

The NFRC label can be found on all ENERGY STAR qualified windows, doors, and skylights and provides performance ratings in five categories:

 

  • U-Factor measures the rate of heat transfer and tells you how well the window insulates. U-factor values generally range from 0.25 to 1.25 and are measured in Btu/h·ft²·°F. The lower the U-factor, the better the window insulates.

  • Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) measures the fraction of solar energy transmitted and tells you how well the product blocks heat caused by sunlight. SHGC is measured on a scale of 0 to 1; values typically range from 0.25 to 0.80. The lower the SHGC, the less solar heat the window transmits.

  • Visible Transmittance (VT) measures the amount of light the window lets through. VT is measured on a scale of 0 to 1; values generally range from 0.20 to 0.80. The higher the VT, the more light you see.

  • Air Leakage (AL) measures the rate at which air passes through joints in the window. AL is measured in cubic feet of air passing through one square foot of window area per minute. The lower the AL value, the less air leakage. Most industry standards and building codes require an AL of 0.3 cf·m/ft².

  • Condensation Resistance measures how well the window resists water build-up. Condensation Resistance is scored on a scale from 0 to 100. The higher the condensation resistance factor, the less build-up the window allows.

For more information on NFRC performance ratings and label, visit NFRC’s Web site.
ENERGY STAR qualification is based on U-factor and SHGC ratings only.

Window Performance Ratings

2016 Energy Star

2016 Energy Star Qualification Criteria

Sound Attenuation

Noise Is Measured in Decibels (dB)
 

  • Whispers – about 20 dB

  • Normal conversations – about 60 dB

  • City traffic – about 80 dB

  • Lawnmowers and leaf blowers – around 103 dB

  • Repeated exposure to sounds over 85 decibels is considered dangerous to hearing, and the louder the noise, the less time it takes to damage hearing
     

Sound Transmission Loss

 

Sound transmission loss is the reduction in noise level resulting from passage through an obstruction. Sound transmission class (STC) is the measure of the effectiveness of a material to attenuate sound.

 

The method to determine STC is conducted using two test rooms: a ''source'' room and a ''receiver'' room. The source room will contain a full-range test loudspeaker. The receiver room will contain a microphone, which is connected to sound-measuring devices. There is a nominal opening between the two rooms - usually about 9' wide by 8' high, but can vary in accordance with the standard.

 

The first step is to measure the sound transmitted from one room into the other through the opening. The sound is measured in decibels (dB) in 1/3-octave bands from 125 Hz to 4000 Hz.

 

The next step is to ''plug'' the opening with the material or partition construction. This could be a single layer of barrier (such as plywood or SheetBlok), or a complete wall with as many materials, layers, air gaps, etc. that can fit in the opening. The edges are completely sealed and sound transmission between the rooms is measured again.

 

The sound level from the ''after'' test is subtracted from the sound level ''before'' plugging the opening. The resulting difference is the transmission loss or ''TL.''

 

Doors are also often weak components of sound insulation and must be properly air sealed to minimize sound leaks. A 45mm (1-3/8") solid core wood door completely sealed with gaskets or weather stripping can achieve an STC rating of 27. 

 

The average single glaze glass window has a STC of 25

 

Double or triple pane glass and storm windows can all help reduce sound transmission through windows. 

Dual Glaze Insulted Glass Window has a average STC of 31

Dual Glaze Insulated Glass using different glass thickness can achieve a STC of 34

Dual Glaze Insulated Glass using different glass thickness and laminated glass can achieve a STC of 36

Moulding FAQ

Moulding Terms

Apron - A trim board that is installed beneath a window stool on the interior.

Astragal - A molding, attached to one of a pair of swinging double doors, against which the other door strikes.

Base - A trim board placed against the wall around the room next to the floor.

Base Cap - A molding used on top of  S4S base moulding to add detail.

Base Shoe - Molding used next to the floor on interior base board. Sometimes called a carpet strip.

Brickmould - Trim used around an exterior door jamb that siding butts to. Also comes with groove (stucco key) for use with stucco.

Bull Nose - Rounded corners.

Casing - Wood trim molding installed around a door or window opening.

Chair Rail - Interior trim material installed about 3-4 feet up the wall, horizontally.

Coffered Ceiling - A built-up false beam with decorative crown and other mouldings constructed in squares on the ceiling.

Column - A vertical structural compression member which supports loads.

Column Base - Decorative base moulding installed next to floor on columns.

Column Capital - Decorative component installed on top of columns. Types include: Roman Ionic, Greek Ionic, Roman Corinthian

Corbel - The triangular, decorative and supporting member that holds a mantel or horizontal shelf.  Also required on some bay and garden windows for exterior support.

Cornice - A type of crown moulding. Overhang of a pitched roof , usually consisting of a fascia board, a soffit and appropriate trim moldings.

Cove - A molding with a concave face used as trim or to finish interior corners.

Crown - A molding used on cornice or wherever an interior angle is to be covered, especially at the ceiling and wall corner.

Jamb - The side and head lining of a doorway, window, or other opening.

Mantel - The shelf above a fireplace opening. Also used in referring to the decorative trim around a fireplace opening.

Outside Corner - Moulding trim that covers the point at which two walls form an external angle

Panel Cap - Moulding installed on the top edge of wainscot panels.

Pediment - Decorative exterior trim assembly installed on top of the exterior of entry doors.

Pilaster - ½ column like decorative trim installed on the sides of exterior doors.

Plinth Block - Decorative base block installed under side casing and next to base moulding. Application is for doors.

Rosette - Decorative trim piece used to add detail to window or door casing.

Round - Round shape moulding.

S4S - Moulding that is rectangular with 90 Deg. angles on all four sides.

Shoe - Moulding installed next to base to cover gap between flooring and base.

Sill - The structural member forming the lower side of an opening, as a door sill or window sill.

Soffit - The underside where the roof or ceiling overhangs the walls. Usually the underside of an overhanging cornice.

Stool - The interior flat molding fitted over the window sill between jambs and contacting the bottom rail of the lower sash.

Stop - Moldings along the inner edges of a door or window frame.

Stucco mould - Exterior trim with narrow profile and stucco key.  Installed around windows and doors.

Threshold - The bottom metal or wood plate of an exterior door frame.

Wainscott - Paneling used as decorative wall covering on lower section of interior walls.  A panel cap is installed on the top edge.

Base Treatments for Windows

Base Treatments for Windows & Doors

Interior Window and Door Trim

Interior Window Trim
 

  1. Corner block

  2. Head casing

  3. 8d finish nails

  4. 4d finish nails

  5. Head jamb

  6. Jamb reveal

  7. Side casing

  8. Side jamb

  9. Horn

  10. Apron

  11. Stool

  12. Sash

  13. Sill trim

  14. Sill

Interior Window Trim Components
Poplar Stool
Pine Stools

Interior Window Trim: Casing , Stool, Apron

Interior Door Trim: Casing and Header Cap

Exterior Window and Door Trim

Exterior Window Trim

Exterior Door Trim
Pediment, Pilaster & Plinth Block

Moulding Styles

Simplicity is the hallmark of Craftsman-style trim. Although each molding is simple, the combined effect gives the room a distinctive, handcrafted look.

Door Moulding
Casing
Plate Rail
Baseboard
Wood Door Mould
Moulding Styles

Use Reveals and Avoid Flush Edges

Wood moves — as it dries out, as the house settles, as you cut it and as you're nailing it up. It's almost impossible to get flush edges to stay that way. That's why, for example, carpenters usually step casing back from the edge of door and window jambs. Stepping trim back to form reveals causes shadow lines and creates different planes that make it harder for the eye to pick up discrepancies.

 

Wood moves, so it's practically impossible to keep flush edges flush. Instead, offset edges from each other, such as the casing from the jamb. And use boards of different thicknesses as with the head casing and the leg shown here. This way, they can swell and shrink unnoticed.

 

Moldings hide the gap: Floorboards don't have to be a uniform distance from the wall. As long as the base/shoe molding covers it, the gap can vary.

 

Avoid exposing end grain

Don't show end grain. It absorbs paint and especially stains differently than flat grain. If a piece of molding must end abruptly, cut a return for it.

Moulding With Flush Edges
Baseboard, Shoe & Hidden Gap Diagram
Window Stool, Apron, & Mitered Return Diagram

Built Up Crowns

Classical Colonial four piece crown

4 Piece Crown Moulding

Mantels

Custom Mantel
Fireplace Mantel

Hardware FAQ

Hardware Handing

New Glass Windows

Get in Touch

Contact Us

Thank you for considering Arcadia Sash and Door Inc. for your windows and doors needs. Please feel free to contact us anytime to learn more about our products and services, or to schedule a consultation with one of our experts.

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