• 129 E. La Porte St.,
  • Arcadia, CA 91006-2832
  • Phone: 626-445-8712
  • Fax: 626-445-7824

Door Components

When ordering an exterior door you will need to answer these questions.

  • Does the door swing IN or OUT?
  • As viewed from outside which side is the hinge on: RIGHT or LEFT?
  • Jamb Size: What is the wall thickness?
  • Sill Material: Aluminum or Oak?
  • Hardware Finish: Brass, Satin Nickel, Bronze, etc.?
  • Weatherstrip Color: White or Brown?
  • Hardware Prep: Tubular 2-1/8" Bore or Mortise?

Arcadia Doors


Door Handing

Exterior Doors - As viewed from the outside specify which side the hinge is on.

Exterior Door Handling | Doors Arcadia, Monrovia & Pasadena

Interior Doors. - Specify which side the HINGE PIN is visible.  (note: you can only see from one side)

Interior Door Handling - Monrovia

Sliding Doors

Sliding Door Handling - Pasadena


Choose an entry door that is appropriate to the house style.

There are three basic door construction materials:  Wood, Fiberglass and Steel

When it comes to selecting a door for your house, it’s best to stay true to the house’s established style. For purposes of door selection, architectural styles can be lumped into four broad categories: Colonial, Victorian, Bungalow, and Modern. The drawings on the following pages show some examples of doors that are appropriate to each of these styles.

All entry doors are not created equal, so do the research. The best entry doors use advanced materials and construction methods to stay looking good for years to come.

Colonials and Capes: 1700s-Present

Doors - Colonials | Monrovia & Arcadia

Most early colonials and Capes (as well as Georgian- and Federal-style houses) had solid-wood doors without glass. To accommodate wood movement, the doors had four or six raised panels. Sticking—the treatment of the rails and stiles at the points where they meet the panel—usually required a simple shape, such as an ogee, quarter-round, or quarter-bead, that could be cut with hand tools.

Doors on colonial-style houses can be combined with a pair of sidelites arranged symmetrically on each side of the door. Above-the-door transoms and fanlights also were stylistically appropriate ways to bring light to the entry hall. They can be rectangular, semicircular, or semielliptical, and can be combined with sidelites. The size of the panes in the transom and sidelites should be proportionate to those of the windows in the rest of the house.

Traditional colonial styles can have a decorative surround  consisting of pilasters with an entablature, pediment, or arch. The trim can be flat, vertical boards, with a thicker and/or taller head trim that might sport a cornice cap. Porticoes and similar porch like additions were not introduced until colonial-revival periods.

Victorian: 1830s-1900s —

Victorian Doors | Pasadena & Arcadia

The middle of the 19th century witnessed an explosion of industrialization and the advent of a “more is more” aesthetic. Beginning with the comparatively tame Greek revival, the era continued on through a series of romantic styles including Gothic, Italianate, Second Empire, stick, Queen Anne, and shingle. Entry into the house was celebrated with a porch as a transition between public and private space, allowing for glass in the doors without feeling too exposed to the outdoors. Also, ornament appeared not just around the door but over the windows, under the eaves, along the rake boards, and even along the ridgeline of the home. For houses that hark to this era, the focal point of the door is glass, often etched or stained. Instead of a single, solid door with sidelites, these styles favor a pair of doors with glass. The shape of the glass can be an oval or rectangle with an arched top, or it can mimic the windows. Doors should still be rail-and-stile construction with raised panels, but the panel might have a more complicated profile. Period doors often have a projecting bolection molding with an elaborate profile at the juncture between frame and panel.

Craftsman - Bungalow: 1900s-1940s —

Craftsman Doors | Arcadia & Pasadena

This era, which includes the Craftsman and prairie style doors, celebrated unadulterated materials and made an aesthetic of simpler construction methods.

Doors for houses of these styles have rails and stiles, often with flat panels and simple rectangular, quarter-round, or quarter-bead sticking. Often, doors have fewer and/or wider panels than ones for earlier eras.

As with the Victorian home, porches are an important component of this style and make it comfortable to have generous amounts of glass in the doors. Muntin patterns should be simple and rectangular. A popular door introduced at this time had six panes of glass in the upper portion of the door and two large, vertical wood panels below. The upper portion of the door allows the owner to see who is on the stoop, while the solid panels below provide privacy and security. This door takes up less width than a solid door with sidelites, making it particularly useful for small houses with narrow entry halls and in areas where security and privacy are a concern.

Modern: 1930s-Present —

Modern Door Styles | Pasadena, Monrovia, Arcadia

Modernism embraced mass production and manufacturing as an aesthetic with a “less is more” credo.

The flush door exemplified the best of this new style. Visible rails and stiles disappeared, replaced with a slab made of durable but inexpensive materials.

The flush door is most successful on houses with many other modern elements, when it stretches floor to ceiling, or when it is combined with a transom to give the same impression. It is also attractive when combined with an asymmetrical sidelite.

Split levels, raised ranches, and other contemporary suburban styles often straddle two different (and conflicting) eras. Their attached garages place them clearly in the machine age, so a strong argument can be made for pushing these houses further in the modern direction with a flush door.

But if these houses have multipane double-hung windows, shutters, and a pitched roof, a flush door is inappropriate. These traditional elements can be accommodated with a simple rail-and-stile door with just one or two flat panels. The rails and stiles provide a nod to traditional construction, while the large, wide panels are more modern. A door with three, four, or five horizontal flat panels also can be appropriate because it acknowledges the horizontality of the building form. Avoid fancy raised panels, applied molding, ornate sticking, and overly decorative windows, and use trim that matches the windows.


How to Store, Handle, Finish, Install &
Maintain Wood Doors

Why Architects And Homeowners Choose Wood Doors

Beauty, style, performance and adaptability are some of the reasons to choose wood doors. To preserve the fine qualities of these doors and a lifetime of superior service, proper storage, handling, finishing and installation is important. The following guidelines will help to maintain the high quality products supplied by wood door manufacturers.

Door Storage And Handling

  1. Store doors flat on a level surface in a dry, well-ventilated building. Doors should not come in contact with water. Doors should be kept at least 3-1/2" off the floor and should have protective coverings under the bottom door and over the top. Covering should protect doors from dirt, water and abuse but allow for air circulation under and around the stack.
  2. Avoid exposure of interior doors to direct sunlight. Certain species (e.g., cherry, mahogany, walnut, teak) in an unfinished state are more susceptible to discoloration if exposed to sunlight or some forms of artificial light. To protect doors from light damage after delivery, opaque wrapping of individual doors may be specified.
  3. Do not subject interior doors to extremes of heat and/or humidity. Do not allow doors to come in contact with water. Prolonged exposure may cause damage. Buildings where humidity and temperature are controlled provide the best storage facilities (recommended conditions 25%-55% RH and 50°(F) to 90°(F).
  4. Do not install doors in buildings that have wet plaster or cement unless they have been properly finished. Do not store doors in buildings with excessive moisture content - HVAC systems should be operating and balanced.
  5. Doors should always be handled with clean hands or while wearing clean gloves.
  6. Doors should be lifted and carried when being moved, not dragged across one another.

Door Finishing

  1. Wood is hygroscopic and dimensionally influenced by changes in moisture content caused by changes within its surrounding environment. To assure uniform moisture exposure and dimensional control, all surfaces must be finished equally.
  2. Doors should not be considered ready for finishing when initially received. Before finishing, remove all handling marks, raised grain, scuffs, burnishes and other undesirable blemishes by block sanding all surfaces in a horizontal position with a 120, 150 or 180 grit sandpaper. Solid core flush doors due to their weight naturally compress the face veneer grain while in the stack. Therefore, sanding of the overall surface will be required to open the veneer grain to receive a field applied finish evenly. To avoid cross grain scratches, sand with the grain.
  3. Certain species of wood, particularly oak, may contain extractives which react unfavorably with foreign materials in the finishing system. Eliminate the use of steel wood on bare wood, rusty containers or other contaminates in the finishing system.
  4. A thinned coat of sanding sealer may be applied prior to staining to promote a uniform finish and avoid sharp contrasts in color or a blotchy appearance. Door manufacturers are not responsible for the final appearance of field finished doors. It is expected that the painting contractor will make adjustments as needed to achieve desired results.
  5. All exposed wood surfaces must be sealed including top and bottom rails. Cutouts for hardware in exterior doors must be sealed prior to installation of hardware and exposure to weather.
  6. Dark colored finishes should be avoided on all surfaces if the door is exposed to direct sunlight, in order to reduce the chance of warping or veneer checking.
  7. Water-based coatings on unfinished wood may cause veneer splits, highlight joints and raise wood grain. If used on exterior doors, the coating should be an exterior grade products. When installed in exterior applications, doors must be properly sealed and adequately protected from the elements. Please follow the manufacturer's finish recommendations regarding the correct application and use of these products.
  8. Be sure the door surface being finished is satisfactory in both smoothness and color after each coat. Allow adequate driving time between coats. Desired results are best achieved by following the finish manufacturer's recommendations. Do not finish doors until a sample of the finish has been approved.
  9. Certain wood fire doors have fire retardant salts impregnated into various wood components that make the components more hygroscopic than normal wood. When exposed to high moisture conditions, these salts will concentrate on exposed surfaces and interfere with the finish. Before finishing the treated wood, reduce moisture content below 11% and remove the salt crystals with a damp cloth followed by drying and light sanding. For further information on fire doors, see the NWWDA publication regarding Installing, Handling & Finishing Fire Doors.

Door Installation

  1. The utility or structural strength of the doors must not be impaired when fitting to the opening, in applying hardware, in preparing for lights, louvers, plant-ons or other detailing.
  2. Use two hinges for solid core doors up to 60 inches in height, three hinges up to 90 inches in height and an additional hinge for every additional 30 inches of height or portion thereof. Interior hollow core doors weighing less than 50 pounds and not over 7'6" in height may be hung on two hinges. Use heavy weight hinges on doors over 175 lbs. Pivot hardware may be used in lieu of hinges. Consult hinge or pivot hardware manufacturer with regard to weight and size of hinges or pivots required.
  3. Clearances between top and hinge door edges and door frame should be a minimum of 1/8" (3.2 mm). For a single door latch edge the clearance should be 1/8" (3.2 mm). For a pair of doors the meeting edge clearance should be 1/16" (1.6 mm) per leaf. The bottom edge should be 3/4 (19 mm) maximum from the top of a non-combustible floor and 3/8" (10 mm) maximum from the top of a non-combustible sill.
  4. All hardware locations, preparations and methods of attachment must be appropriate for the specific door construction. Templates for specific hardware preparation are available from hardware manufacturers or their distributors.
  5. When light or louver cutouts are made for exterior doors, they must be protected in order to prevent water from entering the door core.
  6. Pilot holes must be drilled for all screws that act as hardware attachments. Threaded to the head screws are preferable for fastening hardware to non-rated doors and are required on fire-rated doors.
  7. In fitting for height, do not trim top or bottom edge by more than 3/4 inches unless accommodated by additional blocking. Trimming of fire-rated doors must be in accordance with NFPA 80.
  8. Doors and door frames should be installed plumb, square and level.

Cleaning and Touchup of Doors

  1. Inspect all wood doors prior to hanging them on the job. Repair noticeable marks or defects that may have occurred from improper storage and handling.
  2. Field repairs and touchups are the responsibility of the installing contractor upon completion of initial installation. Field touchup shall include the filling of exposed nail or screw holes, re-finishing of raw surfaces resulting from job fitting, repair of job inflicted scratches and mars, and final cleaning of finished surfaces.
  3. When cleaning door surfaces, use a non-abrasive commercial cleaner designed for cleaning wood door or paneling surfaces, that do no leave a film residue that would build-up or effect the surface gloss of the door finish.

Adjustment and Door Maintenance

  1. Insure that all doors swing freely and do not bind in their frame. Adjust the finish hardware for proper alignment, smooth operation and proper latching without unnecessary force or excessive clearance.
  2. Review with the owner/owner's representative how to periodically inspect all doors for wear, damage and natural deterioration.
  3. Review with the owner/owner's representative how to periodically inspect and adjust all hardware to insure that it continues to function as it was originally intended.
  4. Finishes on exterior doors may deteriorate due to exposure to the environment. In order to protect the door it is recommended that the condition of the exterior finish be inspected at least once a year and re-finished as needed.

Hallmark Certified Wood Flush Doors

NWWDA certifies firms, which have demonstrated the ability to manufacture wood flush doors according to NWWDA Industry Standards for Wood Flush Doors. Each NWWDA certified manufacturer's plant is inspected by NWWDA to determine if their production facilities and procedures conform to the Standard including all adhesives used to meet the requirements of a Type I (exterior) or Type II (interior) adhesive in accordance with the NWWDA Test Methods T.M.6. The Hallmark provides the door manufacturers, purchasers, and specifiers with an easily recognizable means of identification.

The NWWDA Hallmark identifies manufacturers who meet all the requirements of the NWWDA Hallmark program for wood doors according to the appropriate NWWDA Industry Standards.


Door Supplier Links

LaCantina Doors Plastro, Inc., fiberglass door manufacturer


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